I use the following technique to sharpen my straight razor blade. I know that it is time to do so when even a very thorough strop does not yield a smoothly cutting blade. With warm lather and proper technique, a straight razor should glide through whiskers as it cuts.

Part One – Plane Your Water Stone

Water stones are an ideal abrasive tool, but it is critical to ensure that their surface is flat before applying the razor. Each pass removes a microscopic amount of metal from the leading edge of the blade. With a flat abrasive stone and even pressure, you remove material evenly from the entire width of the blade. This proper technique ensures that the cutting edge stays totally flat and in line with the spine of the razor. When the technique is repeated on the other side of the razor, blade imperfections are removed and the process allows the metal to converge to a sharp line–the cutting edge!

Begin by soaking the stones for thirty minutes to ensure that they will absorb plenty of water. Mine comes with a plastic storage container that works well for this step.

For my planar grinding surface, I will use a pane of glass from the hardware store. For safety, I covered the sharp perimeter with electrical tape. Then, I used binder clips to hold the 220 grit waterproof sandpaper to the glass. This assembly is supported on the underside by some silicone trivets. Put some water on the sandpaper, as this is necessary for lubrication and evenly distributing the abrasive materials during movement.

With the planar surface established, remove the water stone from the soak and draw a grid pattern directly on the stone with pencil. Then, place the grid face down onto the wet sandpaper. Holding the stone gently on the sides, move it in a circular fashion. Take care not to press down in any one spot. Rather, let the stone float on the later of water and simply let its own weight determine which areas will be ground away. Check periodically to see if any grid pattern remains. Once the grid is fully ground off, the stone is sufficiently flat.

Material from the stone will mix with the water to form a slurry. This is useful for the grinding process, and I recommend adding water as necessary to keep the slurry at a low viscosity. This promotes free-flowing material that will not want to concentrate unevenly. When the first side is complete, you can rinse everything and repeat with the other side.

Lastly, if the flattening process results in sharp edges at the perimeter of the stone, apply a chamfer. This way, the blade will not snag and gouge the stone during sharpening.

Part Two – Sharpen Your Razor Blade

Now that the stone is planar, set aside the sandpaper assembly. Put the stone on a stable surface with the coarser, 4000 grit side facing up. I use the blue plastic case because it has rubberized feet and a nice height. The corners have bosses that keep the stone from slipping off.

Then, gently lay the blade flat on the stone and push it (edge first) away from you. Flip it over and pull it back (edge first). The spine of the razor will also be in contact with the stone. Simply allow the razor’s edge to be the second point of contact, and this way you always sharpen at the appropriate angle.

Be sure to maintain gentle, even pressure. It really doesn’t take much more than the weight of the blade itself to do the trick. This is the part that really takes practice, as at first you may find yourself accidentally bearing down hard (or maybe being too light). If you accidentally make a bad pass, that’s alright. Take a moment to regroup and begin again.

The spine and the leading edge are the two points of contact which control the angle.

Generally, I will make 100 to 150 passes along the 4000 grit stone resulting in 50-75 passes per side (alternating, of course). Then, I repeat the process with the 8000 grit stone. However, I may double or triple the amount of passes with the finer grit. I know I am close to being done when the cutting edge shines with a mirror finish. When finished, I drain any standing water from my tools and lay them out to dry before storage.

Part Three – Strop Your Razor Blade

I have always found a door latch plate to be the perfect height for me to attach my strop. For the finishing touch, I make 200 to 300 passes on the linen side, then 200 to 300 passes on the leather side. Some people prefer the use of strop compounds or grits. I have never personally used these materials. For my purposes, the result of the technique shown here is perfectly satisfactory.